The Sunday morning service in the chapel was nearly over, so listened until it ended and then went to bus stop 571. It’s clearly marked. It clearly says “San Pietro”. An hour later, no bus 571 had appeared and there was no way I was going to make it to St Peter’s in time for the Angelus. No, I’m not going to get upset; I'll just go to Plan B.
Plan B took me on bus 87 to the Argentine square near the Victor Emmanuel memorial. I made my way to Piperno, a restaurant touted for it’s carciofi, artichokes done “Jewish style”, which means deep fried. It took a little while to find the restaurant, which is tucked in a small enclave in the Jewish ghetto. On route, I was treated to a street celebration - music and dance and general noise. I didn’t ask, but it certainly might have been a wedding party. There were some barriers and youngish guards at the end of the street, a reminder that these faithful are still being persecuted and that at any time, in any place, someone might be willing to trade his or her life for theirs.
I found Piperno, was seated, and ordered the carciofi followed by a gnocchi alfredo. I meant to order the meat sauce, but t
Most of the other diners where having a great time chatting happily and eating loads of pasta, salad, meat, and fish. Two women, speaking both French and Italian, were seated beside me. My Italian is a work in progress, but I understood enough of their French to be greatly relieved that they weren’t American. The yammered endlessly, rolled their eyes, asked the waiter to change this and hurry with that. In short, they embodied an air of unearned wealth. In any case, I was interested in the main course they each ordered, one which included one fried artichoke and several pieces each of fried fish and cheese. When I go back, I’ll have the gnocchi and the ’sampler’ plate. And yes, I will go back!
After lunch, I wandered the ghetto for a little while, then decided to turn around and find the Pantheon. It was perhaps a 15 minute walk. There’s a lot of road work and buildings surrounded with scaffolding, no doubt getting refurbished in the ’off season’.
One side of the Pantheon is thus surrounded with metal beams, bars, and cables. Somehow, it seems less ancient with all that stuff stuck to it. The Victor Emmanuel is surrounded by work barriers and (spoiler alert for tomorrow) so is the central fountain in the Piazza Navona.
There are main streets with buses and banks and hotels and churches; interesting side streets, some with touristy shops selling t-shirts, some quiet and cobbled, guarding a range of antiques, many eateries, and churches - everywhere churches. The old streets are never straight, always narrow, and incredibly interesting architecturally. No surprise, I like the old stuff best.
It was nice to wander around, not get too lost, rely on synchronicity, and continue to discover that Rome is quite a manageable city. It’s much more like Boston than New York. It's walkable. If you opt not to walk, the subway and bus system is efficient - except for the 571, which still hasn’t shown up.